
Gilles Pudlowski’s regional guides profile hundreds of the
most charming hotels and restaurants, cafés, bars, and gourmet
shops throughout the towns and villages of each area. Normandy,
the site of the D-Day landing beaches, museum, and memorials, probably
has more significance to American visitors than any other part
of France. A milestone event of great France-American importance,
the dedication on June 6, 2007, of the Normandy Cemetery Visitor
Center on the sixty-third anniversary of the landings, ensures
its continued popularity. Normandy is also home to legendary Mont
St-Michel, the Bayeux Tapestry, and Giverny (the home of Claude
Monet), and is the third most popular destination in France for
Americans. Brittany, next door, offers 800 miles of grand rocky
coastline, fishing villages, and prehistoric menhirs. In this “petit
Pudlo,” M. Pudlowski profiles the restaurants and gourmet
shops that offer the best of coast and countryside: the fish, shellfish,
duck, and famous cheeses for which these regions are known, as
well as typically Breton crêperies. |

Gilles Pudlowski is France’s most respected culinary commentator;
restaurant critic and writer for the French weekly magazine Le
Point; historian of French regional culinary traditions;
and the author of two cookbooks, France the Beautiful Cookbook and Great
Women Chefs of Europe. The Pudlo guides have appeared yearly
for almost 20 years.
|

|
“For
the first time, Gilles Pudlowski’s smart, opinionated,
and deliciously spot-on guide…is available in English.”—Departures
“Michelin has seen competitior some and
go, but none have built the reputation of Gilles Pudlowski…” —Florence
Fabricant, The New York Times |

NORMANDY
Hotels-Restaurants
La Terrasse (rating: comfortable, very peaceful))
Rte de Vasterival, 3 km nw via D75, Varengeville-sur-Mer
Tel. 02 35 85 12 54
Francois.delafontaine@wanadoo.fr
www.hotel-restaurant-la-terrasse.com
Closed mid-Oct.–mid=Mar.
22 rooms: 48-58€
Prix fixe: 22€, 28€, 35€, 9€ (child)
A la carte: 34€
On the side of the cliff and facing the sea, this 1900s inn offers
rooms that are simple and peaceful, a shady garden and good dishes
that take their inspiration from the ocean, such as saffron-seasoned
mussel cassolette, the traditional stew called marmite Dieppoise
and an apple and almond tart worthy of our grandmothers.
Restaurant
Les Nymphéas (rating: very good, very
comfortable)
9, rue de la Pie, Rouen
Tel. 02 35 89 26 69
lesnympheas.rouen@wanadoo.fr
www.les-nympheas.fr
Closed Sun., Mon., 3 weeks Aug.
Prix fixe: 29,50€, 38€, 48€
A la carte: 76€
At the end of a small paved courtyard, this half-timbered house
is a beautiful blend of rusticity and modern restraint. The half-shaded,
half-sunny terrace is a blessing in summer. Patrick Kukurudz
produces dishes of character in a menu built around the flagship
products of the region. One enjoys the delectable pan-seared
foie gras escalope with its jus heightened with cider vinegar,
langoustine ravioli with slow-cooked new cabbage, slow-cooked
lobster stew with Sauternes, sliced veal tenderloin, veal sweetbread
and morel fricassee and hot apple soufflé with Calvados.
The service is as warm as it is attentive and the menus balanced.
BRITTANY
Hotels-Restaurants
Miramar-Crouesty (rating: very luxurious, very peaceful)
In Port-du-Crouesty, 2 km sw. BP32, Arzon
Tel. 02 97 53 49 00
www.miramarcrouesty.com
Closed 3 weeks Dec.
108 rooms 220-370€. 12 suites: 270-500€.
Prix fixe: 49€
The architecture of this building suggests an ocean liner setting
out on a cruise. Calm, luxury and sensual pleasure are all within
reach. First, there is the Louison Bobet thalassotherapy institute
and its many facilities (swimming pools, steam bath, Jacuzzi,
fitness center). Then, when our thoughts turn to food, we can
choose between the Ruban Bleu—preferred by those receiving
therapy, since it serves quality health food—and the more
gastronomic Salle a Manger, where Yves Toublanc freely expresses
his skills. There, we feast on crab ravioli, cilantro-seasoned
catfish, Atlantic sea bass pan tossed with herbs, roasted squab
with artichoke and fennel or the pralined ricotta and chocolate
dome for dessert. The rooms are luxurious. The blue-and-white
interior mirrors the colors of the ocean. Friendly service and
an elegant welcome.
Shops
Yvon Madec
Prat-au-Coum, Aber Wrac’h
Tel. 02 98 04 00 12
www.prat-ar-coum.fr
The oyster, in all its live, briny glory, is Yvon Madec’s
stock in trade. Enjoy his boudeuses, Belons and creuses immoderately
at the farm. |